Did you know the story behind the branding crisis that nearly derailed Burberry in the early 2000s? For over a century, Burberry was born and bred as a symbol of British royalty, a brand built for the upper class. They meticulously crafted a world of high-end style and exclusivity. But at the turn of the millennium, something happened that they could never have planned for.
The streets decided to make Burberry theirs.
The Hijacking: How the Check Conquered the Streets
The shift was driven by two powerful and often misunderstood UK subcultures: football "hooligans" and the rising "chav" phenomenon. The iconic beige check, particularly on caps and scarves, became an unofficial uniform on the football terraces and council estates.
For these groups, wearing the check was a symbol of rebellion, an ironic flip of the class system. It was a way of taking something exclusive and making it their own. But as the media frenzy grew, the pattern became unfairly associated with anti-social behavior and, in some cases, violence.
The Luxury Brand's Nightmare
For Burberry, this was a disaster. Their traditional, wealthy clients began to abandon the brand, not wanting to be associated with the new connotations. Pubs in the UK even started banning anyone wearing the Burberry check. The pattern went from a symbol of luxury to a "brandcuff," trapping the company in an image it couldn't control. Useless to say, management had to do something drastic.
The Unthinkable Move: Killing Your Most Famous Asset
What they did was one of the boldest marketing moves of the 21st century. Under the leadership of then-creative director Christopher Bailey, Burberry made a decision that seemed unthinkable: they effectively killed their famous pattern.
They systematically removed the check from almost all their products, reducing its presence by over 90%. It was hidden away, used only for the discreet lining of their iconic trench coats. It was a strategic retreat, designed to let the brand starve the subculture of its uniform and reclaim its identity.
The Lessons: Why This Story Still Matters
This story is so inspirational for two reasons.
First, it proves that the streets will always be ruthless and provocative; that the streets often make fashion, not the other way around. It’s a testament to the raw power of authentic subcultures.
But on the other side, we have a marketing case study for the ages. It shows that to save your brand's soul, you might have to do the unthinkable. Axing your most recognizable asset to get free? That was THE MOVE.
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